The Potency of Guava Leaf Extract (Psidium guajava L.) as a Cosmetic Formulation: A Narrative Literature Review

Guava (P. guajava L., Myrtaceae) is a fruit plant widely distributed in tropical and subtropical regions, including South America, Africa, and Asia. Traditionally this plant is often used as food, traditional medicine, dye, and others. Based on a literature review, guava leaves (P. guajava L.) contain many bioactive compounds that play a role in maintaining healthy skin. Therefore, this plant has the potential as a basic ingredient for the formulation of cosmetic preparations. This literature review aims to determine the potential of guava leaves (P. guajava L.) as a basic ingredient in the manufacture of natural cosmetics. The results of this literature review show that guava leaves (P. guajava L.) have many benefits for cosmetics, namely guava leaves (P. guajava L.) can be used as an anti-acne cleanser, body scrub, lotion, deodorant, toner, and as an anti-acne cleanser and face cream. Archives of The Medicine and Case Reports Journal Homepage: https://jurnalkedokteranunsri.id/index.php/AMCR

of the Republic of Indonesia, cosmetics are defined as a substance or preparation intended for use on the outside of the human body (epidermis, hair, nails, lips, and external genital organs) or teeth and mucous membranes, which have the function of cleaning, scenting, changing appearance, correcting body odor, protecting or keeping the body in good condition. 4 Cosmetics are used for a variety of body care needs.
There are various types of cosmetic products used for skin care, such as body scrubs, lotions, face masks, and facial washes. This literature review aims to describe the use of guava leaves as cosmetic ingredients.

Utilization of guava leaf extract in body scrubs
Body scrub is a cosmetic product that contains ingredients slightly rough (scrub) that can remove dead skin cells. Guava leaf (P. guajava L.) is one of the natural ingredients that have the potential to be used as a scrub. Guava (P. guajava L.) contains essential oils, flavonoids, and oleanolic acid. 14 Previous research described the formulation of guava body scrub preparations. White glutinous rice granules are used as a base for scrubbing. 8 The formulation of this scrub preparation was made into three formulations, namely the F1 preparation with an extract concentration of 10%, the F2 preparation with as much as 15%, and F3 with as much as 20%. In this study, the results obtained from body scrub preparations in the form of soft cream with scrub granules, homogeneous, easy to apply to the skin, has a soft texture and feels cool when applied to the skin, is easy to wash and has a distinctive odor from guava leaf extract with additional aroma. Based on the evaluation tests carried out in terms of texture, aroma, and color, the F2 preparation with an extract concentration of 15% was good and stable preparation. So it can be concluded that from these three formulations, the formulation of body scrub preparation of guava leaf methanol extract (P. guajava L.) as an antioxidant is preparation F2.

Utilization of guava leaf extract in deodorants
Deodorant is a cosmetic product that helps

Utilization of guava leaf extract in anti-acne cleanser
Acne vulgaris is a chronic inflammatory disease that generally occurs on the skin. Acne is a disease that affects the pilosebaceous unit of the skin and can cause inflammatory or non-inflammatory lesions. 16 Guava leaf extract (P. guajava L.) is known to contain active compounds such as tannins, triterpenoids, glycosides, and flavonoids that have the potential as anti-acne. 10 The formulation for making acne cleanser emulgel uses two concentrations of guava leaf ethanol extract, namely F1 (5%) and F2 (10%). In previous studies, the formulation that showed the preparation had the characteristics, and the most favored by the panelists was F1.
Based on the results of the physical evaluation test, F1 has better homogeneity, spreadability, and foam stability criteria when compared to F2. However, in terms of shape, clean power, and viscosity, F2 is higher than F1. Thus, it can be concluded from these two formulations that the guava leaf (P. guajava L.) ethanol extract emulgel formulation as an anti-acne cleanser was F1 with an extract concentration of 5%.

Utilization of guava leaf extract in facial cream
Aging is a naturally progressive process that leads to aesthetic and functional changes to the skin caused by a group of molecules known as radicals. 17 These radicals, also known as reactive oxygen species, can be created by burning by-products and UV radiation interacting with oxygen present in the skin.
Antioxidants are substances that are able to counteract the damaging but normal effects of the physiological processes of oxidation in normal tissues.

Utilization of guava leaf extract in lotion
The lotion is a cosmetic preparation in the form of a liquid emulsion that is applied to the hands and body area, which aims to make the skin moist and soft. further research needs to be done to make the formulation in order to obtain a stable preparation.

Utilization of guava leaf extract in toner
Toner is a cosmetic preparation that is used to clean and refresh the skin that is used before using a series of skincare. In the research that has been done, guava leaves (P. guajava L.) have properties as antioxidants because they contain phytochemicals, namely phenolic acids, flavonoids, alkaloids, saponins, and tannins. The efficacy of guava is described by the tannin substances which naturally show the ability to suppress the production and secretion of surface lipids in the skin.

Conclusion
Guava leaves (P. guajava L.) have many benefits as additional ingredients for anti-acne cleanser, body scrub, lotion, deodorant, toner, and face cream.